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06-Jun-2017 00:03

The newest restaurant kitchens are often works in progress, and not progressing fast enough for our family’s early-season vacation.Of course, I also found plenty of bright exceptions as I ate my way through a wide range of seafood halls, Italian restaurants, taco shops, breweries, and BYOBs along the coast.Of course, one could easily miss this roadside stop without a hint, and I owe fellow critic Adam Erace of Billy Penn for the tip. Parker’s Garage & Oyster Saloon is the season’s most notable new opening on Long Beach Island. The seared scallops get paired with chunks of house-cured pork belly and foamed lemonade.And this stylish revamp of the Boathouse in Beach Haven from the owners of Mud City Crabhouse and the Old Causeway in Manahawkin is a gorgeous new destination, a white-washed brick and wood-floored hall with a sunset patio perch for some whimsical modern updates to seafood classics. And local oysters are roasted Rockefeller-style with a 21st-century kale makeover, the bacony braised greens mixed tarragon-infused fennel cream. The “sweet summer corn pasta” was drowned in a strangely heavy sludge of pureed corn and blue cheese.Too bad the kitchen also struggled mightily at our early-season visit. And my bouillabaisse was full of so much half-cooked seafood (rubbery monkfish and squid) that it needed to be returned. And now I wish we’d waited to eat there last instead of first.

This superb chop was lightly breaded, then served over a tangy provolone cream sauce topped with broccoli rabe and a crispy nest of frizzled onions, essentially a South Philly roast pork sandwich re-imagined juicy and tender on the bone.

The spice-dusted whole crabs are a draw, and crispy fish tacos are also popular.

But the daily grilled fish specials — tuna, swordfish or cold-water John Dory — are the real highlight not to be missed.

So I’d forgotten all about this lively Italian BYOB, tucked away across the Dorset Avenue bridge in Ventnor Heights, until a visit to the Margate farmer’s market, where I came across an impressive array of fresh pastas for sale produced by the Red Room’s current owners, Jack and Maria Gatta.

That was all the temptation I needed for a revisit, and I wasn’t disappointed with toothy nubs of ricotta cavatelli tossed with broccoli rabe, sausage, and bread crumbs, or the silky ribbons of pappardelle coiled around hearty beef Bolognese.

They were destined for a hot date with some blackening spice and a griddle worked masterfully by Bright’s wife, Michelle.



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